1. How do I measure a room for tile?
Tile is most commonly sold by the square foot regardless of the size or shape of the individual tile, to obtain the square footage of a room simply multiply the length times the width of your space to the nearest full foot over what your tape measure actually reads. For example if your room measures 9?5 x 9?9 you would multiply 10 x 10 to arrive at 100 square feet.
2. Should I order extra tile?
Yes, for most straight lay tile patterns 5% extra will provide for waste as well as extra tiles for repairs should any need arise in the future. Ten percent extra is recommended for diagonal tile patterns; as there is more waste. We strongly recommend keeping your extra tile safe as tile runs in lot numbers and the shading and sizing can and will change from one lot to the next.
3. How is tile durability rated?
The 1 to 5 tile rating applies only to one aspect of tile: visible surface abrasion resistance, which is fancy talk for how readily scratches show on the tile's surface. A tile rating of 5 is the toughest in terms of standing up to scratching, dirt and traffic, 1 being the easiest to damage. See below for a quick breakdown of the 1 to 5 ceramic tile ratings system:
· Grade 1: This is the weakest of all standard grade ceramic tiles. It's really only suitable as a wall tile.
· Grade 2: This is best for light traffic areas. Again, a great product for wall tiles, but it will also work in residential bathrooms, where foot traffic is minimal.
· Grade 3: Where ceramic tile ratings are concerned, grade three is most common in residential building, and perfect for light to moderate traffic. This makes it a very sensible choice for residential kitchens, countertops, residential flooring, and all areas that receive lighter wear and tear (i.e., grade 1 and 2 areas).
· Grade 4: This grade is a step up from grade 3 tile grades. It's still a good choice for residential uses, such as tile floors and countertops, but it can also take the heavier abuse of light commercial foot traffic, such as you'd find in a doctor's office.
· Grade 5: This stuff is as tough as it gets. When it comes to standard grade ceramic tiles, grade 5 is built to take a beating. It's mostly used in high traffic commercial areas such as shopping malls and airports.
4. Should I seal my tile?
There is no benefit to applying sealer to ceramic tile or porcelain itself as these materials are hard fired and will not absorb the sealer. Many natural stones (marble, travertine, granite, slate, etc?), adobe tiles and brick pavers need to have a penetrating sealer or grout release applied prior to grouting the tiles or stones to prevent the products from being stained by the grout. A enhancer sealer can make natural stone products look richer and deeper and is often recommended.
5. Should I seal my tile grout?
Depending upon the location of the tile; grout sealing can be beneficial. Grout sealing, however, is not a miracle cure for preventing your grout from becoming discolored. What you use to clean your floors will by far affect this more than applying a sealer. There are a variety of sealers and we will be glad to discuss these with you in person.
6. What should I use to keep my tile clean?
While there are a variety of floor cleaners out there, many of which claim to be appropriate for all types of flooring, there is a very simple and cost effective way to clean your tile floor and grout, white vinegar and hot water. This solution cuts grease and disinfects but most importantly has NO detergents. Soaps/detergents soak into your grout leaving a sticky residue which attracts dust and dirt changing the color of your tile grout.
7. My grout is already discolored what can be done?
We can restore your grout to close to its original color but does require the use of a mild acid.
8. What should I consider for outside applications?
Once you have ideas about the desired look it is important to consider the finish. Some tile finishes will it be a slip hazard when wet or damp. You also want to make sure that the tile you choose is freeze thaw rated for outdoor use.
9. My home has a pier and beam foundation, can I have tile installed over my wood floors?
Yes and no. We install ceramic tile, porcelain tile, adobe tile, brick pavers and natural stone tile (marble, travertine, granite, slate, etc.) in pier and beam homes on a regular basis. Although there are setting materials that say they can be applied directly to a wood surface we will not do so ourselves. We always install a tile backer board prior to installing the tile and should you choose to install your own tile we STRONGLY recommend that you do so.
10. My floor has vinyl flooring, should it be removed?
In most cases no, if the home is on a pier and beam foundation the tile backer board can be installed directly over the vinyl flooring. On a slab foundation the vinyl flooring can act as a fracture membrane which helps to reduce the chances of slight foundation settling transmitting cracks into your tile flooring (there are variables that need on site inspection to determine for sure).
Tile is most commonly sold by the square foot regardless of the size or shape of the individual tile, to obtain the square footage of a room simply multiply the length times the width of your space to the nearest full foot over what your tape measure actually reads. For example if your room measures 9?5 x 9?9 you would multiply 10 x 10 to arrive at 100 square feet.
2. Should I order extra tile?
Yes, for most straight lay tile patterns 5% extra will provide for waste as well as extra tiles for repairs should any need arise in the future. Ten percent extra is recommended for diagonal tile patterns; as there is more waste. We strongly recommend keeping your extra tile safe as tile runs in lot numbers and the shading and sizing can and will change from one lot to the next.
3. How is tile durability rated?
The 1 to 5 tile rating applies only to one aspect of tile: visible surface abrasion resistance, which is fancy talk for how readily scratches show on the tile's surface. A tile rating of 5 is the toughest in terms of standing up to scratching, dirt and traffic, 1 being the easiest to damage. See below for a quick breakdown of the 1 to 5 ceramic tile ratings system:
· Grade 1: This is the weakest of all standard grade ceramic tiles. It's really only suitable as a wall tile.
· Grade 2: This is best for light traffic areas. Again, a great product for wall tiles, but it will also work in residential bathrooms, where foot traffic is minimal.
· Grade 3: Where ceramic tile ratings are concerned, grade three is most common in residential building, and perfect for light to moderate traffic. This makes it a very sensible choice for residential kitchens, countertops, residential flooring, and all areas that receive lighter wear and tear (i.e., grade 1 and 2 areas).
· Grade 4: This grade is a step up from grade 3 tile grades. It's still a good choice for residential uses, such as tile floors and countertops, but it can also take the heavier abuse of light commercial foot traffic, such as you'd find in a doctor's office.
· Grade 5: This stuff is as tough as it gets. When it comes to standard grade ceramic tiles, grade 5 is built to take a beating. It's mostly used in high traffic commercial areas such as shopping malls and airports.
4. Should I seal my tile?
There is no benefit to applying sealer to ceramic tile or porcelain itself as these materials are hard fired and will not absorb the sealer. Many natural stones (marble, travertine, granite, slate, etc?), adobe tiles and brick pavers need to have a penetrating sealer or grout release applied prior to grouting the tiles or stones to prevent the products from being stained by the grout. A enhancer sealer can make natural stone products look richer and deeper and is often recommended.
5. Should I seal my tile grout?
Depending upon the location of the tile; grout sealing can be beneficial. Grout sealing, however, is not a miracle cure for preventing your grout from becoming discolored. What you use to clean your floors will by far affect this more than applying a sealer. There are a variety of sealers and we will be glad to discuss these with you in person.
6. What should I use to keep my tile clean?
While there are a variety of floor cleaners out there, many of which claim to be appropriate for all types of flooring, there is a very simple and cost effective way to clean your tile floor and grout, white vinegar and hot water. This solution cuts grease and disinfects but most importantly has NO detergents. Soaps/detergents soak into your grout leaving a sticky residue which attracts dust and dirt changing the color of your tile grout.
7. My grout is already discolored what can be done?
We can restore your grout to close to its original color but does require the use of a mild acid.
8. What should I consider for outside applications?
Once you have ideas about the desired look it is important to consider the finish. Some tile finishes will it be a slip hazard when wet or damp. You also want to make sure that the tile you choose is freeze thaw rated for outdoor use.
9. My home has a pier and beam foundation, can I have tile installed over my wood floors?
Yes and no. We install ceramic tile, porcelain tile, adobe tile, brick pavers and natural stone tile (marble, travertine, granite, slate, etc.) in pier and beam homes on a regular basis. Although there are setting materials that say they can be applied directly to a wood surface we will not do so ourselves. We always install a tile backer board prior to installing the tile and should you choose to install your own tile we STRONGLY recommend that you do so.
10. My floor has vinyl flooring, should it be removed?
In most cases no, if the home is on a pier and beam foundation the tile backer board can be installed directly over the vinyl flooring. On a slab foundation the vinyl flooring can act as a fracture membrane which helps to reduce the chances of slight foundation settling transmitting cracks into your tile flooring (there are variables that need on site inspection to determine for sure).
While none of these are hard and fast rules, nor do they guarantee or imply that you can now go and install your own tile, they should help to educate you on some basic tile "do's and don'ts."
We hope that these help you to make informed decisions regardless of whom you choose to install your new tile.
We hope that these help you to make informed decisions regardless of whom you choose to install your new tile.
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"Eric with Tile Plus has been doing our tile work for about the last 10 years.
Not only do we consider him to be a friend and great tile man, but an artist in his field."
Troy & Dot Priddy
Troy Priddy Custom Homes
Not only do we consider him to be a friend and great tile man, but an artist in his field."
Troy & Dot Priddy
Troy Priddy Custom Homes